Re: Thermal store and system boiler

["Paul" <paul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the info guys I've done a bit more searching and came
across:

http://suprimafix.cozweb.co.uk/index.htm=20

which is a site dedicated to problems with Potterton Suprima boilers. It
lo=
oks as though a common fix is to resolder dry joints. They also list
suppli=
ers of reconditioned boards which are around 1/3 the cost of a new PCB
boar=
d.

Long term I still intend to replace the boiler but this will give an
opport=
unity to improve insulation and draught-proofing first as well as get a
bet=
ter thermal store. All in all hopefully this will mean a smaller and more
e=
fficient gas boiler when the time comes.

Paul=20

--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "ianh1000" <ianh1000@...> wrote:
>
>=20
> I agree with Kevin, if it is a Suprima then you just need to get
someone =
to re solder the joints on the main relays, quick job and I think OK to do
=
yourself as you don't break the seal for the boiler itself. I did this on
m=
y Suprima when it was 2 years old (8 years ago) and it has been fine
since.=
=20
>=20
> Funny that the fan on my unit is giving notice ( very noisy) and that
par=
t also costs =A3300. I suspect every part for these boilers costs
=A3300...=
..... That would buy me another zone for Sonos!
>=20
> Not sure that I can look at the fan myself as I would need to open the
ma=
in enclosure. Does that have to be done by someone registered under Corgi
(=
can't remember the new name).
>=20
> Regards
> ian=20
>=20
>=20
> --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Kevin" <kw1816@> wrote:
> >
> > Potterton Suprima by any chance ? If it is, whip the PCB out and
dry jo=
int it. Well known fault and I think Watchdog did a story on it a few
years=
ago. Try googling Potterton Suprima lockout.
> >=20
> > Might keep you going while you decide.
> >=20
> > Cheers
> > Kevin W.
> >=20
> > --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Paul" <paul@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Morning all,
> > >=20
> > > I'm being forced to make a decision on our boiler,
Potterton, it has =
a design fault on the system board that results in the reset button
needing=
to be pressed. It is highly annoying especially in the morning when their =
is no hot water and can take several attempts or even a complete power
cycl=
e to get it to work. The problem is getting worse.
> > >=20
> > > Now I can spend about =A3300 on a replacement board but I
can't help =
thinking this is ultimately a waste of money. The boiler is now 10 years
ol=
d and rated at 75% efficient.
> > >=20
> > > The current hot water and heating is system based and open
vent. I'd =
like to move to a closed vent system and use a thermal store. In the next
f=
ew years we'll likely to build an extension to the house and I'd like to
in=
clude a small solar array for heating water. We'd also like to add a wood
c=
hip / log / pellet stove to reduce the reliance of gas and for aesthetic
re=
asons. I'm also likely to use UFH in the new extension and have radiant
wal=
l panels in one room which requires a manifold and mixing valve.
> > >=20
> > > So any recommendations?
> > >=20
> > > Paul
> > >
> >
>




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