Re: Lighting Design for Kitchen

[Ben McCormack <yahoogroup@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

All

With regard to required light levels I think I am getting somewhere=20=20
with the American regulations

http://www.redwoodcity.org/cds/building/pdf/handouts/Electrical/kitchen_lig=
hting_requirements.pdf

"A design recommendation may be to utilize the Illuminating=20=20
Engineering Society
of North America (IESNA) guidelines that at least 30 footcandles of=20=20
light be
provided for seeing tasks in kitchens'

and

One footcandle =E2=89=88 10.764 lux.

This gives a recommended lux level of 320.

Now with 20W bulbs I need 20 Lights
and
with 50w bulbs I need 9 Lights.

Ben



On 29 Dec 2008, at  11:52, Ben McCormack wrote:

> Paul
>
> I have been looking at the Light Corporation for a while. They are
> based just down the road from me.
>
> I was also looking at Jonh Cullen but as you say they are expensive
> and also design to use their own fittings, this pushes the cost up.
>
> The only thing I can't currently work out is the required illuminance
>
> 320 lux	Recommended office lighting (Australia)[8]
> 400 lux	Sunrise or sunset on a clear day. Well-lit office area.
> 500 lux	Lighting level for an office according to the European law UNI
> EN 12464
>
> If I go with 500lux I end up with 25 lights just in the ceiling
>
> Drop that down to 320lux and it comes out at 16 fittings.
>
> Ben
>
> On 29 Dec 2008, at 10:48, Paul Gale wrote:
>
> > Hi Ben,
> >
> > I think you're doing the right thing designing yourself - I used
a
> > "medium" level designer from John Cullen Lighting in
London but
> > really did most of it myself anyway when I was speaking to her!
> > Wasted cash in my case (about =C2=A3500 IIRC) - that was for the
new =
=20
> loft
> > office and stair wells.
> >
> > 25 fittings is a LOT!, but if a load of them are task/uplights/
> > effect then that's closer. Still, they'll cost a fortune with
> > associated CBus dimmers and transformers, fittings and good
quality
> > lamps! I'd say, get that number down a bit if you can.
> >
> > If they're 50W halogen, running costs would also be a factor you
> > shouldn't ignore.
> >
> > Do use a high quality lamp though - I used Bell Aluminium halogen
> > 5000hr dichroic lamps with a range of beam angles. They also have
> > the benefit of throwing most of the heat forwards, so reducing
the
> > fire risk and melting of fitting/transformer etc behind! Good
> > quality lamps make a big difference to the quality of light and
life
> > of the lamp.
> >
> > I replaced most of my downlights with a "dark" effect
halogen - has
> > a black ring baffle inside the body before the lamp to reduce
> > horizontal glare. This is nice as it adds a real feeling of
> > "designed" lighting - a lot less eye drawing glare on
the ceiling,
> > more "pools" of light in carefully chosen places etc.
> >
> > Also consider the angle of beam of the lamp - you can do some
great
> > things with really narrow beams to illuminate smaller items/areas
> > and use the light as a effect light. Also coloured
filters/dichroic
> > lenses can be fun.
> >
> > These are the range I used for my replacement and new downlights:
> >
> > http://www.lightcorporation.com/cat/downlights.php
> >
> > Also used these in the loft shower room which look pretty funky -
> > really well made solid aluminium turned fittings - top quality:
> >
> > http://www.lightcorporation.com/cat/cam50.php
> >
> > I also used a number of colour changeable LED marker/uplights
from:
> >
> > http://www.abstractavr.com/
> >
> > I used a custom version of:
> >
> > http://www.abstractavr.com/steplights/
> >
> > with 1W RGB LED's in, driven from a DMX capable LED driver. I've
not
> > programmed them up yet, but will eventually be controlled via
CBus
> > and Kevin's xAP/HV/CBus gateway (fab bit of kit!)
> >
> > HTH?
> >
> > Paul.
> >
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On
> >> Behalf
> >> Of Ben McCormack
> >> Sent: 29 December 2008 10:05
> >> To: UKHA Mailinglist; UK Selfbuild
> >> Subject: [ukha_d] Lighting Design for Kitchen
> >>
> >> All
> >>
> >> I have started looking into the lighting design for the
kitchen.=20=20
> The
> >> space is quite large 4.5 * 5.5m and all of the lighting will
be
> >> controlled by cbus dimmers.
> >>
> >> I have considered using a lighting designer but thought I
would
> >> have a
> >> go myself last night.
> >>
> >> The plan is to have low voltage halogens in the ceiling and
then=20=20
> task
> >> lights under the cabinets.
> >>
> >> So I started by finding that Aurora seem to produce nice
fittings=20=20
> and
> >> transformers at a reasonable price. (http://www.aurora-lighting.com/=20
> )
> >>
> >> I then found Relux which is a lighting design program.
Aurora=20=20
> produce
> >> the specifications for each and every one of their fittings
that
> >> feeds
> >> into Relux. (http://www.relux.biz/) The software is
free to=20=20
> download
> >> and not too difficult to get your head around.
> >>
> >> So I chose a standard Aurora fitting and put all of the
room=20=20
> details
> >> into Relux.
> >>
> >> You can also add things like windows and different finished
on the
> >> floor and walls.
> >>
> >> Fitting - http://www.aurora-
> >> lighting.com/ProductPages/LampProductDetails.aspx?
> >> g=3D2951&c=3D6&b=3D71&oc=3D81
> >>
> >> There are a couple of factors that affect the calculation
> >>
> >> Maintenance Factor - I assume this is used for commercial
> >> installations where Maintenance and blown bulbs can be a
major=20=20
> issue.
> >> I set this to 1.
> >>
> >> Illuminance Required - After digging around I left this set
at 500
> >> lx.
> >> This seems to be a reasonable figure to use.
> >>
> >> The end result of this is 25 Light fittings in this space.
Spaced
> >> on a
> >> 1m grid.
> >>
> >>
> >> So how does this compare with other people who have fitted
low
> >> voltage
> >> in the kitchen. It seems rather a lot of light fittings to
me?
> >>
> >> Regards
> >> Ben
> >>
> >>
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>=20



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