Re: Bathroom project - Cbus style lighting system....1 room only though!!

["noel_pilot" <HA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi all,=20

It's Christmas day, I've got a small stash of money to let me get
cracking on my bathroom so I'm looking to order my stuff! :) this goes
nicely with my chilled eve, wine and royle family!!

one question on this, ideally i'd put the PIR before the timer that
way the light wont turn on when the powers supplied each evening as it
would if the timer was in front of the PIR.

Only problem with this is that the timer then doesn't have any power
to it to power the timer!!!  Now I know a few have battery backup but
this means that the timers going to be running on battery backup near
enough permanently! something like http://tinyurl.com/a6xgze  the only
time it would actually have mains power would be during the brief
periods that someone uses the bathroom between 2200 and 0600.

Has anyone used any mains timers predominantly on battery backup??=20
Some of the other timers on sites i've looked at get slated, this one
slightly less so than others.

Any advice all??!  Thanks

Noel
Happy Christmas,



--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "noel_pilot" <HA@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Tim,=20
>=20
> Good find!  What with this and the soft mod xbox topic it's been the
> most exciting few days on here for me in ages! :)
>=20
> So without wanting to complicate it toooo much.....supposing I wanted
> to always have motion activated lights for the bathroom, but using
> only one PIR I think I'm right in saying I could use two timer
> switches, one on each parallel circuit both set to exactly opposite
> times, i.e. full brightness circuit from 0600 - 2200, dimmed circuit
> from 2200 to 0600.
>=20
> Appreciate that means if the timers fail then im in the dark but my
> main question is what would happen if both circuits are completed at
> the same time?! that I'm guessing wouldn't be a good thing?!
>=20
> Cheers
>=20
> Noel
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Tim" <timsyahoo@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Noel, glad you like it :-)
> >=20
> > Try this one:
> > http://www.danlers.co.uk/pir/ceflpirsealed.html
> > I've only just skim-read the description, but I think if you put
the
> > time-clock in the place of the "alternative switch"
(see wiring
> diagrams)
> > you'll avoid the lights always coming on for a minute or so when
> they enter
> > auto mode at night. Double check your wiring though to avoid
breaking
> > something...
> >=20
> > I forgot to mention I have my garage light - the one inside the
> garage - on
> > a PIR (not a Danlers PIR though) to avoid it being left on all
the
> time and
> > it works very well.
> >=20
> >=20
> > Also try http://www.cbus-shop.com/ for Cbus
gear.
> >=20
> > Good luck,
> >=20
> > Tim.
> >=20
> >=20
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of
> > > noel_pilot
> > > Sent: 29 September 2008 21:51
> > > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > > Subject: [ukha_d] Re: Bathroom project - Cbus style lighting
> system....1
> > > room only though!!
> > >=20
> > > Much as I'd love cbus the more I think about this, the
smarter
it is!!
> > >=20
> > > I'm also thinking I could have either a second motion
detector
on the
> > > normal switched circuit to have motion activated lights all
of the
> time.
> > >=20
> > > Can someone point me in the direction of these PIR's that
will
do this
> > > kind of job, i'm struggling with my search terms!
> > >=20
> > >=20
> > > --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Tim Hawes"
<timsyahoo@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Noel,
> > > >
> > > > I'm sure a CBus solution would give great flexibility
but you're
> > > > paying a lot of "overhead" if you only do one
room.
> > > > I reckon you can do DIY the "dim night light on a
sensor"
thing for
> > > > around =A3100 =96 it won't be based on any fancy
automation though.=
It
> > > > also assumes that the lamps/transformers you already
have are
> suitable
> > > > for dimming.
> > > > (it's based on a scheme I've been thinking about for my
> bathroom, but
> > > > I don't want the PIR bit)
> > > >
> > > > You'd run two parallel circuits from the existing
ceiling rose
> to the
> > > > light(s) you want to come on dimmed. One circuit is as
now =96
> just the
> > > > switch. The second circuit contains a time-clock (get
an
electronic
> > > > one so it doesn't drift in power cuts), a PIR (some
"nice"
> > > > ceiling-mount ones around =A330-=A340) and a
conventional dimmer
switch
> > > > (conventional as in one you'd fit to a wall box but
suitable for
> > > > dimming the type of lights you have).
> > > >
> > > > Your existing switch works at all times so if you get
up early to
> > > > catch a plane etc you can still put the lights on full
with the
> cord.
> > > > The second circuit only works between the on/off times
you set
(e.g.
> > > > midnight to 5am). When the time clock is off the PIR
output
> doesn't go
> > > > anywhere, when the time-clock is on the PIR switches on
the lights
> > > > through the dimmer switch which you've manually set to
get the
right
> > > > light level.
> > > >
> > > > The only potential problem is that I've found PIRs
always come
> on when
> > > > power is first applied, then go off. So having it after
the
> time-clock
> > > > means the light would always come on at midnight (or
whatever)
when
> > > > the clock circuit is activated. I couldn't see how
keeping it
> powered
> > > > 24/7 would only activate the light between set times.
> > > >
> > > > The time-clock and dimmer could go in the loft, or
perhaps in the
> > > > airing cupboard to make adjustments that bit simpler.
You'd
probably
> > > > want to fit a master isolation switch in front of all
the smarts
> too =96
> > > > just to make sure the auto side of the circuit doesn't
unexpectedly
> > > > become live if the clock gets out of sync. Fixed wiring
time-clocks
> > > > are also available so you don't have to wire-in a
separate 13A
> socket
> > > > for a plug-in jobby.
> > > >
> > > > I think that all makes sense, I don't *think* I missed
anything
> > > > obvious, but you never know :-)
> > > >
> > > > If you're feeling *really* adventurous you could drop
the
ceiling by
> > > > 6", run rope light around the edge and have the
rope light come
> on via
> > > > the timer/sensor during the night. Or rope light under
the sink
> and/or
> > > > bath.
> > > > Or perhaps just connect one of the 6 downlighters to
the
auto/timer
> > > > circuit and do away with the dimmer altogether.
> > > >
> > > > I shall now don my flameproof suit and ignore the cries
of
heretic!!
> > > >
> > > > HTH,
> > > >
> > > > Tim.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 12:23 PM, noel_pilot
<HA@> wrote:
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > I remember reading way back about someone who had
a lighting
setup
> > > > > whereby they have occupancy detection so lights
come on
> automatically
> > > > > but with intelligence, i.e. if its 0200 only turn
the
> landing/bathroom
> > > > > lights on to 15% or so so as not to blind you in
your sleepy
> state!!
> > > > >
> > > > > I love this idea and would love to be able to
replicate it for
> this
> > > > > project.
> >
>



------------------------------------

********************************************
Limited Time Offer - Free iPhone VAT Calculator
http://berble.com/index.php/component/content/article/109
********************************************=20=20