Re: Re: [OT] ishh central heating controls

[Dave McLaughlin <dave@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Lee and All,

One of the benefits of controlling the system with your own hardware is
the ability to add some additional control features that a standard
system does not have.

I have added standby temperature control to mind. If any of the 3
temperature sensors (outside, inside and boiler) drop below a user
preset, then the boiler is switched on for a boost time of 90 mins. What
this allows me to do, is put the system fully off when I am away on
business and if the temperature in the house or outside etc, gets too
low, then the system brings the heating on, preventing any freezing
conditions etc. The house I am in suffered from this in the 9 months
that is was for sale during the winter before I purchased it.

The second thing is adding the ability to remote control it. I have a
GSM modem on the network and I can switch the system ON and OFF via a
text message. Great for when you are out or working late, you simply
send a text message to put the heating on some time before you get home
and you then have a nice warm house to return home to. Or, using the
Internet, I can access the system and control it as before.

Regards
Dave...

---
Very funny Scotty, now beam down my clothes!!
---
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http://www.embeddedcomputer.co.uk
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LeeUKHA wrote:

> Chaps,
>
> First off, the note of caution has been noted. My electrical skills
> are OK,
> it's my design skills that are suspect, hence this thread.
>
> Following Deans fantastic diagram this seems like the direction to
> head in,
> so here's the plan.
>
> 1)Put a new surface mount box with two 240V sockets in the airing
> cupboard,
> powered by the CH/HW wiring box.
> 2)Plug two X10 appliance modules into it.
> 3)Put two 240V plugs with short leads into these modules.
> 4)Put another two gang surface mount box, under the first, in the air
> cupboard.
> 5)Mount 1 x DPDT (240V coil) relay and 1 x SPDT (240V coil) with
> bases, into
> (4).
> 6)Remove the CH, HW and NoHW 240V lines from the wiring box and wire
> them to
> the relays as per Deans diagram.
> 7)Add 3 x new leads from the relays back to the wiring box, as per
Deans
> diagram.
> 8)Wire the L & N from each lead (3) to the relay coils.
>
> This gives me X10 control of the HW/CH (while disconnecting the
existing
> controller), but while X10 is being used, the existing controller can
> still
> be used to give 1 hour boost to the CH/HW. Nice. Can anyone see any
> problems?
>
> My last question (and it may be the deal breaker) which only occurred
as I
> wrote this email is - do these 240V coil relays buzz loudly when they
are
> active?
>
> Cheers,
> Lee