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RE: Re: [OT] Woodworking - making a tape storage shelf system
- To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
- Subject: RE: Re: [OT] Woodworking - making a tape storage
shelf system
- From: "Dean Smith" <ukha@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:34:29 -0000
- Mailing-list: list ukha_d@yahoogroups.com; contact
ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
- Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Does Tab C go into slot A or Slot B ? ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Morgan [mailto:smorgo@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 20 January 2004 17:26
To: ukha_d@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Re: [OT] Woodworking - making a tape storage shelf
system
I'd indeed agree that all those individual separators would make for
awfully
fiddly construction.
A mini bookcase is relatively simple if you've got a router.
Try this:
1. Using 2 boards that are just over twice as wide as the desired depth
(front-to-back) of your cabinet.
Board A should be the same length as the overall height of your cabinet.
This will form the sides.
Board B second should be a little under the length as the overall width of
the cabinet (width - board thickness). This will form the top and bottom.
2. On board A: Using a straight cutting router bit that is the same
diameter
as the board is wide, cut a rebate at one end (this will be the top). The
depth of the rebate should be half the thickness of the boards.
3. Route a slot a little way up from the other end. This take the bottom.
Don't do it as a rebate, because there'll be no support beneath the base
and
if it has to take significant weight, it may fail later.
3. Route a slot to the same depth where you want each shelf to be.
4. Using a table saw, cut this board in half lengthways. You now have two
matching sides.
5. Cut board B in half lengthways and you have top and bottom.
6. Route a 4 or 6mm deep rebate along the back edge of each of these
boards.
7. Assemble with pins/glue.
8. Cut a piece of veneered plywood (or hardboard) to fit inside the rebate
on the back and pin into place. This will keep the cabinet square and
rigid.
9. Cut shelves to fit and slide into place.
If you're feeling rather more adventurous, you could cut through-dovetails
to joins the top/bottom to the sides. This will make for a much stronger
joint but is obviously much more labour intensive (and requires more skill,
too!)
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