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RE: Gate automation



Thanks for the explanations Nigel and Alan, just to clarify in my case I
have three points, boiler house (most convenient for running power
especially as it houses the generator), the main house, and the gate.

Boiler house to gate is about 25m, gate to main house is about 15m, boiler
house to main house is about 10m (distance may be a bit less but aren't
more).

Diagramatically.......


Boiler House




Main House



Gates

Access for power cables is MUCH easier in and out of the boiler house than
the main house. So if I locate the control box in the boilerhouse and run
2x2.5 SWA plus say 2 x cat 5 to the gate and run 2xCat 5 from the main
house
to the gate and finally 2 x cat5 from the main house to the boilerhouse.
All
cat 5 to the main house would terminate in node zero so could be patched. I
should be covered for the gates, does that sound right?

I will be running other cables to the gate for lights, cameras,intercom etc
so these would be just for the gate system.

One question comes to mind .....can the sensor/remote be located at the
gate
remotely from the control unit?
Only other way I can see to do this would be to build a gate post like a
brick s*** house to house the control gear.

Cheers
Mick



-----Original Message-----
From: Nigel Giddings [mailto:nigel.giddings@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 26 May 2003 19:58
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Gate automation


Mick,

The 230 vac supply needs to be in 1.5 to the 'control box'.

Each gate motor, 24vdc, needs a 2.5mm from the control box to the motor.
Long runs may require larger cable as it is low voltage, high current.

Put plenty of 'pairs' in between the control box, gate intercom etc. and
the
house. Use 2" duct where practical as well for flexibility...

Nigel

-----Original Message-----
From: Mick Furlong [mailto:hiltoneltd@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 26 May 2003 10:09
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Gate automation

Nigel

am I right in that whether the control unit is in the house or at the gate
you will need at least one lot of 2.5 SWA? Is one enough?
I am getting to the stage of doing this myself as well but have a
complication in that power will be coming from the boilerhouse but the
signal cables will be coming from the main house.

Cheers
Mick

-----Original Message-----
From: Nigel Giddings [mailto:nigel.giddings@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 26 May 2003 09:07
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Gate automation


Paul,

I have been helping my neighbour with his gates over the past few weeks
and
have learnt a lot. Although the units appear expensive there is quite a
lot
to them...

The main unit uses 230v, so a normal cable 1.5mm armoured or similar.
The controls tend to work on closing or opening contacts, the whole unit
is
24vdc, alarm wire appears ideal.
If you mount all controls in the house you will need:
power cable for the gates, 24vdc high current (2.5mm at least), one for
each
gate
4 wire for radio receiver
4 wire for ir break detector (stops gates closing when car or other is
between them)
4 wire plus plus for keypad, intercom, bell push etc.

It seems normal to mount controls locally to the gates. I also used
steel
conduit to motors, detectors etc. I thought it was worth the effort.

If you do mount the control box outside don't under estimate the space
needed, he has a box 30" x 18" which is tight with his setup.

HTH Nigel

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Robinson [mailto:ukcueman@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 25 May 2003 23:44
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: [ukha_d] Gate automation

At some point (after my house has turned into a home!) I will install a
gate
at the entrance to my driveway, about 10 ish feet wide. Ideally, this
would
be something that can be opened by hand (so the postman and visitors can
get
in without it looking too enticing to non-genuine visitors) but would
normally be operated with a remote control from the car and pronto or
similar from within the house.

There seem to be many electric gates and control mechanisms out there.
Can
anyone recommend anything in particular?

Also, what cable should I lay now (while I'm flood-wiring the house) to
keep
my options open and make installation easy later?

Thanks,
Paul



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