RE: [OTish] Electronics (for HA)

["Dave McLaughlin" <dave@xxxxxxx>]

Just to thow my 2 cents in.

Your hardware cost is 270 quid. That is a lot of PCB's of professional
quantity and in double sided, through hole plated from PCB-POOL
(www.pcb-pool.com)

You can get a eurocard (160mm x 100mm) for 49 euros on a 10 day service.
Add
a few euros for soldermask and silkscreen and you have a very high quality
professional PCB. You can get it in 5 days but you add 100% to the cost of
the basic cost. Best bit is the through hole plating as it avoids the
hassle
of having to fit through pins or making sure you always put a track on the
top side away from pins before passing through the board to the other side
with a through pin. Messy..!! All in a fixed cost based on size and not
number of holes etc.

I don't work for them by the way, I am just a very satisfied customer who
has used them for about 3-4 years now with excellent results.

Regards
Dave...

PS.. If you use Eagle for you designs, they can accept your PCB design from
the Eagle output.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian B [mailto:Ian@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 28 April 2002 17:41
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] [OTish] Electronics (for HA)


Andy et al

I will work up a page or ten on the way I produce my circuit boards.
Basically you throw money at it and have a laser printer for best results.
1) PCB design software 150 pounds - others available and cheaper, don't
know
about quality
2) Print your masterpiece onto acetate (laser is best)
3) Plonk the acetate and PCB to be into the UV box - 100 pounds
4) Develop the PCB cos we are using photo etching - bargain at a few pence
5) Drop the PCB to be into the etching tank - 70 quid or so for tank,
heater
and fish tank pump + chemicals
6) Take out your masterpiece and drill lots of holes in it with your
dremmel
and stand - 100 pounds.

This is what I have paid to get the results you see. There is of course all
the time to learn how to use all this stuff as well. Never let it be said
it
was easy or cheap. There are shortcuts but I don't regret spending this
time
and money at all.

It must be said that the master Doxey gave me some invaluable pointers at
the beginning. Thanks again Keith.

Ian B

> -----Original Message-----
> From: andy_powell_is [mailto:ukha@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 28 April 2002 16:29
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: [ukha_d] [OTish] Electronics (for HA)
>
>
>
> Ermm.. I think I've made a slight error... I got some stripboard from
> Maplins (via the special Q courier service :D ) and I've just had a
> look at it.. I think I got the wrong stuff (my fault) because I was
> just expecting it to be plain fibreglass stuff with holes in. This is
> like that on one side but on the other are lines of copper running
> the entire length of the board in a row: eg
>
> 00000000000000
>
> 00000000000000
>
> each row of 0's has copper running along it. but there is a gap
> between the two sets of  0's...
>
> Can someone in the know tell me what I should have ordered? Again I
> was wrongly under the impression that I would be able to build a
> prototype of 'a thing' using soldered wires...
>
> If anyone can use the stuff I got and is going to the london meet
> then you're welcome to it...
>
> .. wot sort of equipment is needed to do something like Ian's work:
>
> http://www.mollyology.com/WebPages/Projects/PIC%20LCD/PIC%20Protot
ype%20helper.htm (last picture on the page)


Andy



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