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RE: Light Switching Question



I should've alos stated that with the 2-gang modules, you can't mix a master
& slave i.e. you can't have 1-gang switch as a master for one circuit and
the 2nd-gang a slave for another circuit. For my application this means I
need to buy an extra 1-gang master and mount it out of the way (in loft), so
I could use a 2-gang slave in the room.

Get back to me if unclear, it took me a while to figure it out. :-)

Tim H.

-----Original Message-----
From: Hawes,Timothy Edward (GEG)

Tracey,

I posted this to the SelfBuild group a while ago, can't remember if I posted
it here or not. Apologies for re-posting if so. I'm dead-set on these for a
bedroom application, just need to find the time. In a white finish, at
least, they're nice prices.

RE: wiring, are you running 3+E back to your consumer units ? Have you
already done it, and / or can your run two 3+E cables where you would
otherwise need only one ? That way could you make all of the
interconnections at the consumer units, instead of at the switch ? With the
X10 modules you're then left with a redundant cable from each location back
to your CUs. A "simple" solution ?

With the switches below, could you get away with just one cable to each
location and run some sort of "bus" at the CU end - i.e. one bus per circuit
? From the tech data sheet (link below) there appears to be only one set of
connections on the back of the switches and not an "in" and "out". Does each
switch simply apply a voltage between 0-240V (?) over the "S" wire to
specify the dim level ?

Relays would work (in theory), but I suspect would be more complicated &
expensive than X10 modules (given RS's typical prices anyway).

HTH,

Tim H.
(no affiliations, these just appeared to solve one of my problems)


======================

Following up on my own message, I've now found these items. They're
available from TLC at good prices. I'm checking direct with Varilight as to
what I need to buy for my particular situation but they appear ideal.

They're basically a one-way dimmer (i.e. "master") capable of being operated
by any number of remote units ("slaves") and well as remote control units.
So you're not limited to 3-way switching, it becomes multi-way. The cable
requirements are the same as for conventional 2 & 3-way switching but the
connections to each switch are different. They are IR operable and include a
learning function and will do regular one-way switching too. There's no X10
interface as far as I can tell but that's no big deal for me.

Hope you find the links useful.

Cheers,

Tim.

General info:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/White_T
elco_Index/Wiring_Accessories~Dimmers_5/index.html

Tech data sheet:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Systems/TouchRemote.htm


-----Original Message-----
From: Hawes,Timothy Edward (GEG)


ISTR that this was discussed a couple of months ago but I don't remember the
conclusions :-(

Basically, I was to control my ceiling light from 3 places, each via a
dimmer switch. Is this possible ? The Collins DIY book lays out the wiring
for 2 & 3 way switching, but this assumes on-off switches rather than
dimmers. For 3 way switching you appear to need a special switch, I've not
seen a conventional switch like this, let alone a dimmer.

Can anyone help ? I need to run the wiring for it this week !!

Thanks,

Tim.


-----Original Message-----
From: Tracey Gardner

I've just counted up and I've got six multi way light switch locations
around my entrance hall,
Two are upstairs so that you can switch the hall and landing lights off/on
as you go in/out of the bedrooms, that leaves the other four on the ground
floor.

The lighting in the entrance hall consists of four, 3m long, three way
tracks/spots and I'm considering the use of X10 LD units for both switching
and dimming. However I've got to consider both the long and short term
scenarios.
By the short term I mean that I envisage moving into the house before
installing any X10 modules and in the long term I need to consider what
would need to be done to enable the system to operate without any X10
modules, ie if I were to sell and move on.
Wiring the switches in the normal way would entail linking all the switch
positions with three core and earth for each individual switch which would
be a nightmare, so that virtually rules that option out.
It did occur to me to use momentary switches, which would facilitate the
installation of LD modules later, but to have them controlling centrally
located latching relays which would enable me to operate the lights without
the wiring nightmare.

Has anybody got any comments or thoughts on my idea?

Tracey

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