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RE: Cabling the house
- To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
- Subject: RE: Cabling the house
- From: "Andrew Brockhurst" <andy@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 10:21:49 +0100
- Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
- Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact
ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
- Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
When a guy came to do some work on my old house.
He had a circular saw contraption which cut at 45deg to the vertical.
It also cut a circular hole out of the floor at a fixed radius.
It had a bag of grommit dohickeys which he dropped into the hole and then
the cutout back on top, the grommits and the 45deg angle made it secure,
no squeaks and also it was easy to take it back up it you needed to make
changes.
even worse ascii art follows (if it looks pants try a fixed font)
__________ __________ _____________
floor \ \cutout / / floor
___________\ \______/ /_____________
Hole was about 1.5 ft in diameter.
the grommit dohickey went between the flooring an the cutout and made up
for the lost wood to keep the levels of the top the same.
Cool peice of kit, don't know if you can hire them. It you have a
circular saw you might be able to rig something up yourself to cut at
45deg, if it won't do it normally, and a square hole and try and find
something to use as a grommit.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: "Keith Doxey" <ukha@xxxxxxx>
To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 22:37:17 +0100
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Cabling the house
> <html><body>
> <tt>
> The chipboard flooring will be VERY WEAK if you do that.<BR>
> <BR>
> Flooring panels intelock along their edges to give support to each
> other<BR>
> which is why you cant easily get them up again.<BR>
> <BR>
> If you do that you will have to fix a batten along the cut edge of the
> floor<BR>
> to provide support to the replaced flooring. Very bad ASCII drawing
> follows<BR>
> <BR>
> floor loose bit floor<BR>
> ------ ----------- ----<BR>
>
> ___ ___<BR>
> <BR>
>
> ^ ^<BR>
> battens to support panel<BR>
> <BR>
> <BR>
> Keith<BR>
> <BR>
> <BR>
> > -----Original Message-----<BR>
> > From: Mark Kaye [mailto:mark@xxxxxxx]<BR>
> > Sent: 13 September 2001 21:16<BR>
> > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx<BR>
> > Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Cabling the house<BR>
> ><BR>
> ><BR>
> > I am considering cutting some of the chipboard up with a
> shallow<BR>
> > circular saw before nailing it back down again. Obviously
> before the<BR>
> > carpets go in! Not sure if that will help. To be
> honest I was gutted<BR>
> > about the situation and haven't really thought about it
> much. I was<BR>
> > going to floodwire but given the task (it took me 2 days to route
> 8<BR>
> > cables in my current place after being built) I don't think I'll
> be<BR>
> > patient enough not to cut corners - a very bad thing.<BR>
> ><BR>
> > Ohh well. Any advice welcome.<BR>
> ><BR>
> > > -----Original Message-----<BR>
> > > From: Phil Harris [mailto:phillip.harris1@xxxxxxx]<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > > I did notice (before the dry<BR>
> > > > lining) that the stud partitions have horizontal
> bracing<BR>
> > > which will make<BR>
> > > > it _very_ difficult to drop wires down now the lining
> has gone up.<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > That's normal ... in many ways it's far easier to have solid
> walls.<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > I found out the same myself ... I thought stud walls would
> be<BR>
> > > easier but<BR>
> > > no...<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > > Has anyone got any ideas on the best way to wire up a
> newly<BR>
> > > built house?<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > Carefully...<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > Phil<BR>
> ><BR>
> ><BR>
> > For more information: <a
> href="http://www.automatedhome.co.uk";>http://www.automatedhome.co.uk</a
> ><BR>
> > Post message: ukha_d@xxxxxxx<BR>
> > Subscribe: ukha_d-subscribe@xxxxxxx<BR>
> > Unsubscribe: ukha_d-unsubscribe@xxxxxxx<BR>
> > List owner: ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx<BR>
> ><BR>
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> ><BR>
> ><BR>
> <BR>
> </tt>
>
> <br>
>
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