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Re: Trying to get my head round X10


  • To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Subject: Re: Trying to get my head round X10
  • From: "Mark Hetherington" <mark.egroups@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 12:49:16 -0000
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

--- In ukha_d@y..., Frost Neil <neil.frost@i...> wrote:
> 1. That each light in the house would need to be separately wired
to an X10
> Din rail module (if I was using those) of it's own as apposed to the
> standard way of wiring the lights?

All lights will require their own DIN module wiring in. Such wiring
can be quite close to "standard" wiring methods but for a full
rewire
it doesn't make much difference. The simplest way is just home run
all lighting to Node 0 (a central point where all the DIN modules
will be installed).

> But still use standard light switches?

You really want to use momentary switches such as the clipsal ones.
These work very well for DIN modules. A standard light switch will
work to a degree but not very successfully. Clipsal ones are
relatively inexpensive.

> 2. For 2 way light switching I would use an AD10 module and for
normal
> switching an LD10 module?

LD10s will do one-way and x-way. You just add more switches as with
standard x-way installations but the wiring is somewhat easier.

> 3. As for any appliances modules what devices would you (anyone)
recommend
> be wired to an X10 din rail?

Personally given the chance of a full rewire, I would wire all
sockets back to AD10s so I could control anything anywhere. But at a
minimum provide support for curtain/blind motors, central heating
control and any "permanently" placed applicance that you would
like
to automate such as fans.

Also in a full rewire, I would add an X10 filter on the incoming line
to prevent outbound signals and unwanted inbound signals. That way is
any neighbours decide to get X10, you won't run into the potential
problems that might cause.

HTH.

Mark.


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