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RE: Dallas 1820 WAS:Homevision - one more time...


  • To: "'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'" <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
  • Subject: RE: Dallas 1820 WAS:Homevision - one more time...
  • From: Mike Griffiths <mike@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 16:02:48 +0100
  • Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

I use my system in Star config but have had to add inline resistors and Diodes

It’s a while back Craig from HomeVision gave me all the info I will repost it here for you I’m sure Craig won’t object.

 

When using the multi-drop mode, make sure you read each sensor's address, entered them into the sensor table, and then downloaded the schedule to the controller.  If you've done this and still have problems, it's usually due to too much wiring capacitance.  However, your wires aren't very long, and most users don't have any problems.  There are several ways to improve wiring performance:

*   - The first thing we recommend is to add a resistor between the temp sensor input port and 5V.  A value of 2200 Ohms is ideal, but anything     between 2200 and 4700 should help.

*   - Minimize the total cable length.  One daisy chain usually works better than many shorter wires "home-run" to HV (assuming the total cable length     is less).  However, we had one user report the opposite results, so this isn't always an improvement

*   - Unshielded cable is better than shielded cable.

*   - If the cable is shielded, DON'T connect the shield, as it increases capacitance.

*   - Non-twisted pair is better than twisted pair. This minimizes capacitance.

*   - If you use twisted pair, use one pair for power and ground.  On the other pair, use one for the signal and leave the other UNCONNECTED.  This     minimizes capacitance.

*   - Try connecting a signal diode (Schottky if available) from the signal to ground at the DS1820 end of the line (cathode goes to signal).  This     will control "ringing" that can happen on long lines.

*   - Try connecting a 100 Ohm resistor in series with the signal line at the Multifunction Expansion Board end of the cable. If you have more than     one cable, use one resistor in each.

 

Also, we recommend you read the sensors in a periodic event running every loop.

Check to see if the value is 255 (which indicates an error), and if it is, don't put it into your temperature variable. That way, an intermittent error will be ignored.

Here's an example:

Variable #0 (temporary variable) = Value of Digital Temperature Sensor 1

If

Variable #0 (temporary variable) <> 255 

Then 

Variable #1 (Temp Sensor 1) = Variable #0 (temporary variable)

   End If

Let me know if you still have problems.

Thanks,

 

Craig Chadwick

President

Custom Solutions, Inc. (a.k.a., HomeVision)

mailto:csi@xxxxxxx

http://www.csi3.com

 

Mike Griffiths

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dr John Tankard [mailto:john@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Fri 11 May 2001 15:58
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Dallas 1820 WAS:Homevision - one more time...

 

> Actually, I'm telling pork pies, I know of someone who has
> set a few up in a
> star config, but according to Dallas, that shouldn't work :-)
>
I gather it will work but does cause problems if all the legs are long, I
cannot remember the reason but it is in the data book. Dallas recommend
using switches to isolate legs to improve propagation and reduce the load on
the network, the I idea is you switch on a leg then access the device on the
leg, when you have finished with a device you instruct the switch to open
again cutting of the leg, from memory its a DS2405.

In a home vision set-up you are unlikely to be able to use this approach.

John




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