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Re: LD10 and "buzzing" fuse at the consumer unit


  • To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Subject: Re: LD10 and "buzzing" fuse at the consumer unit
  • From: "Mark Hetherington" <mark.egroups@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 13:32:42 -0000
  • Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

--- In ukha_d@y..., Keith Doxey <ukha@d...> wrote:
> Didnt notice the bit about the main fuse.
>
> Is it an actual FUSE or an MCB (Miniature Circuit Breaker)?

Not sure of the exact terminology (I used to know) but it is a fuse
that takes fuse wire when it "blows".

> Fuses shouldnt really buzz, if it is then maybe it is aging and the
fuse
> wire is rattling to the surges through it just as light bulb
filaments
> "rattle".

Ah. Maybe I could try replacing the fuse wire and pulling it as taut
as possible to try and restrict the movement.

Eventually I want to move to all MCBs. When I had the shower
installed, the plumber replaced one of them with an MCB but I am not
sure what parts were needed to enable him to do this or I would
replace them all now and the consumer unit later when my garage is
finished.

> MCB's could well buzz slightly as they have a coil in there that
gerates a
> magnetic field proportional to the current flowing through it. When
the
> field is strong enough, ie, there is too much curent flowing, the
pull of
> the field is enough to operate the trip.

Ah right, MCBs might not fix the problem then.

> Yes, I did mean loft insulation.

OK cool. Would it still provide adequate sound proofing if it
was "compressed" during fitting. I don't really want to lose say
100mm around the cupboard so if I could compress it and not lose too
much benefit it would be relatively simple to do.

I guess since it will also insulate at the same time I will need to
vent the cupboard to reduce heat build up.

Mark.




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