Re: Re: LD module mounting

["Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>]

From the wiring guide...

http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/wiring/cable.html#lights

 

"If you decide to use X10 Din Rail modules like I did here is some important advice for your electrician.

• Leave some space between the DIN rail dimmers. Two against one another is OK, but it's better not to have three together on a rail. At one of its sides, a DIN rail dimmers needs about one centimeter of space in order to avoid side-effects due to heating.

• When wires run too close to one another, some weird behavior can occur. It seems it does not happen if the length of the wiring is less than about 10 meters. Above that, X-10 recommends separating the wires.

• Where it is impossible to separate the wires, a mains relay at the module may fix the problem.

Unfortunately this information didn’t come to me until after all the wiring was complete, floors down and walls plastered! However, out of 34 circuits I only had two that were effected by this problem. Both were on faceplates that had 4 switches/circuits and separating the wires in the wall box cured the problem."

 

At the time I was tolf this would be fixed in a firmware update on the newer version?

M.

----- Original Message -----

From: geraint@xxxxxxx

To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 3:50 PM

Subject: [ukha_d] Re: LD module mounting

I think it was Mark or Keith who mentioned the spacer issue to me a
while back, so maybe they could advise about the AD next to LD issue.
I would think it would still need a way of getting some heat out.

Don't forget, that if you put a switch for the unit in, that will
take up two spaces, then a 20 way actually fills up pretty quickly,
especially if you lose 2 or 3 spaces as coolers.

We always say when running Cat 5, whatever you think you need, double
it.
I think it may be good advice to do the same here.

I don't know how you are going to mount, but I find the flushmount
ones very unobtrusive.

Regards
Geraint

I have photos of one of the 20 ways, complete with AD10's and LD10's,
if you want me to send, then it'll give you an idea, as it has the
main switch and two MCB's in also. Let me know, and i'll send when
home :)

--- In ukha_d@y..., "Paul Gordon" <paul_gordon@h...> wrote:
> >
> >If I remember, as i'm doing this at the moment.
> >
> >the AD10 is equivalent of 2 mcb's in width
> >the LD10 is equivalent of 3 mcb's in width.
>
> Excellent info - just what I needed. - thanks!
>
> >
> >As others have pointed out, it is worthwhile leaving a spacer gap
> >between two modules together as in :
> >
> >space - module - module - space.
> >
> >This is becuase the LD10 can get quite hot and if it cannot vent it
> >tends to stop working.
> >I've not had one fail on me yet, but I do know they do get warm
when
> >dimming.
>
>
> OK, makes sense, - I presume that only the LD10/11 is prone to
heating due
> to the dimming function?
>
> In which case, is there an argument for alternating AD's & LD's, so
that two
> (or more) LD's are not adjacent to each other?
>
>
>
> >I actually use 20way flushmount metal MK consumer units.
> >I have 4 in node 0, plan that they will cover the main house as it
is
> >at the moment. If I do add an extension, then i'll add others
then. I
> >have created the node 0 design so that either 2 or 4 more units can
> >go in.
> >
>
> This is *just* for the master bedroom lights, although I suppose
some
> expansion space for a couple of other units would never be a >bad<
idea!
>
> Cheers.
>
> Paul G.
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp




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