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Re: cables, sockets and plugs, whole house audio, x10 DIN modules


  • To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Subject: Re: cables, sockets and plugs, whole house audio, x10 DIN modules
  • From: Nigel Orr <Nigel.Orr@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:27:29 +0100
  • Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

At 19:41 09/08/00 +0100, you wrote:
>Does anyone know good cheap suppliers for cables, plugs, sockets etc?

I get cat5 from my local electrical distributor, =A335 per 1000ft box.

>I'm initally planning to stick CAT5 cable throughout, probably 4-5
cables=
=20
>to each corner of the room, all going back to the study.

Make sure you've got a good wire labelling scheme ready too!

>I've got my SO interested on the basis that I'll be able to get
audio=20
>distributed around the whole house.  For this I'm not so sure what
the=20
>best way is.

For most rooms, I've got a cat5 for 'a/v', 1 pair for each of left and=20
right, 1 pair for composite video.  Some rooms (eg bathroom) where I don't=
=20
want an amplifier in the room, are fed speaker signal from an amp in the=20
wiring centre

As of last night, I've built a working IR repeater, I'm planning to fit
the=
=20
receivers in my PIR movement detectors, as they have spare pairs and are=20
easy to point a remote at, with all IR receivers and transmitters wired in=
=20
parallel, receivers in each room, transmitters where needed to control=20
equipment.  BTW, for others who may be trying, the TSOP18xx IR=20
receivers/demodulators from Maplin seem to be fabulous, even under
bright=20
fluorescent light.

>   I've been thinking about running some speaker cables around along
with=
=20
> the cat5,

Use 1.5 Twin and Earth mains, a different colour from the normal wiring if=
=20
you can.

>  and also coax cables for video (is this called rg6?).

I've currently just used cat 5, but I've not used it for anything apart=20
from CCTV yet.  Quality seems good though.

>study so will need a way to get the source coming from the lounge back
to=
=20
>the study to be distributed around elsewhere, with some extra audio kit
in=
=20
>the study to supply more audio sources.

Cue Keith...

>Main objections I've had are that it'd be best not to have to gouge
holes=
=20
>in the walls for the cables to go through as some rooms aren't going to
be=
=20
>decorated for some time.

Shouldn't usually need to make many holes in walls.  Certainly not if
you=20
have floorboards you can lift.  Have a look at my info on=20
http://ha.orrs.net for some pointers to
wiring.

>Ideally I'll be trying to put all the cables behind the skirting board

Have you tried removing the skirting boards?  If it's a recent house, it=20
might be easy, but often they're not removable intact, so you might be=20
better lifting carpet if there's a suspended floor, or running cables
above=
=20
and bringing them down through partition walls etc.

>as then I'll not have the worry of having to get the wall plastered
so=20
>smoothly

Plastering large areas of wall is not for the faint-hearted, but
plastering=
=20
or patching over a small track cut out for cable or conduit is
straightforw=
ard.

>I'm also wanting to replace the current old fusebox with a newer
trip=20
>switch one, and install a DIN rail for X10 control of the lights. 
What=20
>does this involve?  From what I've found on the net so far it looks
like=20
>I'll probably need to rewire one extra cable from the lights back to
the=20
>fusebox and/or rewire the switches to go back to the fusebox.

Yes, both.  Each module needs a cable to the light and one to the=20
switch.  You might be better siting the modules local to the lights.

>If anyone's got any information or suggestions that may help, it'd be
grea=
t.

Make sure you've got a couple of willing helpers, and plan plan plan
plan=20
plan.  Everything you can think of, and then some more...

Nigel


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