The UK Home Automation Archive

Archive Home
Group Home
Search Archive


Advanced Search

The UKHA-ARCHIVE IS CEASING OPERATIONS 31 DEC 2024

Latest message you have seen: Re: More on the LD10


[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: LD10 and AD10 manuals



Hi Tim,

Very difficult question to answer :-((
It depends on so many factors.

The usual cause of a blown fuse is lamp failure. As the filament blows
(normally at switch on) the ends are then free to move within the bulb.
Depending on the orientation of the bulb this can cause a short within the
bulb. If the bulb is mounted cap up as in a normal ceiling fitting there
are usually no ill effects but with most wall lights and many chandeliers
where the bulb is cap down the filament can short out on the filament
supports and draw a massive current which blows the fuse.

If the fuse is a cheap glass bodied quick blow type normally sold for about
10p then it is unlikely to blow, instead the triac will often die due to
the massive current. If by some miracle is does blow then it will almost
certainly shatter and most likely the triac will still die :-((

Dimmers should always be fitted with top quality Hi Speed Ceramic fuse
which fail quickly enock to protect the triac and also do not shatter :-))

That is the reason I suggested having the modules in an accessable place.
If you put them where you can get to them it will almost certainly
guarantee that you never have a fuse or triac failure, put them where you
cant reach them and everytime a bulb goes you will have a failure.

A couple of Murphy's laws.....

The 5p fuse incorporated to protect 1000 pounds worth of equipment will
protect itself by allowing the equipment to blow up first.

After the last of 16 screws have been removed from an access panel, it will
be discovered that the wrong access panel has been removed.

Been there...done that....got the T-shirt :-))

Keith

Keith Doxey
http://www.btinternet.com/~krazy.keith
Krazy Keith's World of DIY Home Automation

-----Original Message-----
From:	Timothy Morris [SMTP:timmorris@xxxxxxx]
Sent:	Sunday, July 25, 1999 3:19 PM
To:	ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject:	[ukha_d] Re: LD10 and AD10 manuals

I've had another think about this, and obviously the simplest way to mount
the modules is in the floorboards above each set of light fixtures, but
then there is then a problem gaining access, if the fuse needs to be
changed. How likely is this?

Tim.

-----Original Message-----
From: Timothy Morris [mailto:timmorris@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 25 July 1999 00:02
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: [ukha_d] Re: LD10 and AD10 manuals


Sorry, Keith. I've just re-read your message, but with a pen and piece of
paper in hand. It's a bit difficult for me to get upstairs in my
wheelchair
:(, but I'll get the electrician to come round next week and sort it out.
Upstairs is just a storage area so access to the floorboards is pretty
simple, He should be able to do it in a couple of hours.

Tim.

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 24 July 1999 22:57
To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
Subject: [ukha_d] Re: LD10 and AD10 manuals




------------------------------------------------------------------------
Was the salesman clueless?
Productopia has the answers.
http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/555



eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/ukha_d
http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying
group communications






------------------------------------------------------------------------
Was the salesman clueless?
Productopia has the answers.
http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/555



eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/ukha_d
http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying
group communications





Home | Main Index | Thread Index

Comments to the Webmaster are always welcomed, please use this contact form . Note that as this site is a mailing list archive, the Webmaster has no control over the contents of the messages. Comments about message content should be directed to the relevant mailing list.