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Re: Instabus and X10 dimming




> Interesting, it doesn't use a Dimmable in-line bulb does it? (4"
long
> tube).
> These don't seem to need much power to start them up.
>
Not quite sure what you mean by dimmable in-line bulb. My not very
technical description is that I think it is a 4"ish long standard 240V
300W tube of the variety you see in floodlamps.

> I have used it to set up a number of "scenes" which set
circuits to
> different levels based on the scene selected. You could, if you
> wanted, set
> a timer to turn all lights to full off after a certain time or period
> of
> inactivity (or both), and a corresponding timer to set lights to
> minimum dim
> at dusk. Perhaps it would be easier to get someone to produce an
> advanced
> dimmer for the UK?
>
There is a possibilty that I may be able to use this new fangled
European Instabus thing controlled from my Comfort alarm in the medium
term (but it's all very vague). I haven't been able to find out much on
Instabus, other than what has already been posted in this group, since I
don't read German. Does anyone have any experience of Instabus dimmers
(cost, availability and how well they work)?

Ray.



> >
> > Ray Barnett.
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:	keith.doxey@xxxxxxx
> > [SMTP:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
> > > Sent:	29 March 1999 23:47
> > > To:	REB.Barnett@xxxxxxx
> > > Subject:	[ukha_d] Re: X10 dimming
> > >
> > > Adding to Nigels comments about the dimmer passing little or
no
> > > current at
> > > its lowest setting.
> > >
> > > Most good commercial dimmer packs used in the entertainment
> industry
> > > have a
> > > feature called "Pre-Heat" which basically does
what you are
> > > describing. The
> > > dimmer passes just enough current to keep the filaments warm
to
> > > eliminate
> > > the surge when the lamp is turned on. There is no
detremental
> effect
> > > to the
> > > dimmer as long as it has an adequate heatsink to disipate
any heat
> > > produced.
> > > There is a positive effect on the lamps in that they last
> > much longer
> > > due to
> > > being pre warmed.
> > >
> > > You may notice a slight increase in power consumption as the
> circuit
> > > would
> > > be consuming a few watts at all times.
> > >
> > > A way around the constant consumption would be to actually
turn
> the
> > > lamp off
> > > at times when it was not going to be used. For example, if
> > you have a
> > > home
> > > theatre but only ever use the room between 7pm and 1 am then
> control
> > > the
> > > module like this
> > > 6:45pm Lamp On, dim down to zero
> > > 7 pm to 1 am use the module as you want with the simulated
> > soft start
> > > 1:15am Lamp Off until 6:45 the following night when you set
> > it up for
> > > soft
> > > start again.
> > >
> > > Hope that helps
> > >
> > > Keith
> > >
> > > Keith Doxey
> > > http://www.btinternet.com/~krazy.keith
> > > Krazy Keith's World of DIY HomeAutomation
> > >
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Nigel Orr [mailto:nigel.orr@xxxxxxx]
> > > > Sent: 29 March 1999 09:42
> > > > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > > > Subject: [ukha_d] Re: X10 dimming
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > At 11:00 26/03/99 -0000, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > <SNIP>
> > > > >I'm concerned because I don't properly know how the
> > > > >dimmer works, and I do know that the cold
resistance of lights
> is
> > > very
> > > > >low, and hence am I pumping loads of current
through the
> > bulb when
> > > I
> > > > >think it is off? If current is flowing, is it
likely to
> > reduce the
> > > life
> > > > >of the bulb and will it kill the dimmer?
> > > >
> > > > The dimmer works by switching on the mains at a
variable
> > time after
> > > each
> > > > half-cycle starts, and switching it off at the end of
the
> > > half-cycle.  0%
> > > > means the dimmer switches on at the end of the
> > half-cycle, and 100%
> > > means
> > > > it switches on at the beginning of the half-cycle.  50%
means it
> > > switches
> > > > on at the peak of the supplied voltage, the sudden
switching
> > > > action is what
> > > > makes dimmers electrically and acoustically noisiest at
50%.
> > > >
> > > > As for the dimmer, it depends how well it is
designed...
> > there are 3
> > > > scenarios:
> > > > 1) It is fully dimmed down, so it will not supply
current to the
> > > light.
> > > > If that is the case, the dimmer will still be
dissipating a
> small
> > > > amount of
> > > > heat, so its lifetime may be reduced slightly, but if
it doesn't
> > > feel warm
> > > > after 24 hours, it's probably not going to have much
effect.
> > > > 2) It is supplying about 10% of power
> > > > If that is the case, it probably will get 'tired' more
quickly
> > > > 3) It is 'intelligent' and goes into some sort of
standby
> > mode when
> > > dimmed
> > > > to minimum.
> > > > If that is the case, it's 'designed' to run at minimum
power,
> and
> > > > so should
> > > > have no problems...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Which _is_ a good thing for tungsten and
tungsten/halogen
> lights.
> > > >
> > > > Nigel
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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